Last Day in Lamu

0330 : Wednesday 24th February.
Too hot to sleep, and I’ve woken up feeling like I have a cold. So annoying. I guess I really haven’t had any quiet time and every day has been busy in a odd way.
Yesterday I went to see the family, all in full mourning again. Ahmed’s brother, the only boy in the family who didn’t get MD, was deeply upset and Bushekhe didn’t seem to know what to do with himself. He just held me, weeping, and I did my best to comfort. This time I find I am out of tears. I couldn’t stop with Ali’s death but somehow I think it is a kindness that they say goodbye to Ahmed now. It would have only got tougher for them.
I ended up having lunch with them, before coming back to Peponi and meeting Bea, Mary and Chaps. Mary went off sailing with a friend for the night. Bea went to see Ali’s family. I visited with Ken, having another enjoyable philosophical discussion. My ankle is healing well now, btw, thanks to him.
Chaps had arranged to meet me after 5pm to help get my suitcase to Bridget’s. I got to Peponi at 1710 and was still waiting for him two and a half hours later. Bea had joined me, as had others, coming and going, so it was a nice evening. However, my patience ran out and I headed home, to find my suitcase there already. I was so pissed off.
So Bea and I went to the nearest place for local food, and Chaps turned up. He got a flea in his ear, to his friends amusement. Apparently he’d got to the meeting point early and I wasn’t there so he’d tried Bridget’s and she’d been home. All was forgiven – I can never stay cross for long.
Bea went back to Lamu town and I spent time packing. I only get 20kgs on the flight to Dar es Salaam which isn’t helpful.
Today Chaps is taking me to see his farm on Manda Island. I wish I felt better for my last day.
0840 : I did get back to sleep and have now done my washing so I have something clean to fly in!!  Chaps is picking me up in 20 minutes. It’s a hot, still day already.
It’s 1230 and Chaps is cooking me rice and fish he caught this morning. We’re at his shamba on Manda Island. It’s very peaceful and I’m being spoilt. When we arrived on the beach, courtesy of Sidiq, Chaps asked if I could drive a 4 wheel motorbike. I said of course! So that’s how we got here. There’s no water here so it’s all brought from Shella when the water tanks run dry.
We just spotted a cow limping past the kitchen window. I went out to check her, naturally. It looks like she’s had a wire or, more likely, string too tight round her leg, causing a heinous constriction injury. I’d say the best option for the poor animal is to be put down.


Lunch was delicious. I love the garlic and chilli based sauces they make here. Everyone cooks so well. Chaps is no exception.
He’s just said he’s not feeling well and upon feeling his forehead, I find he has a decent fever. So I’ve ordered rest on the verandah, Panadol and water. I’m doing the clean up!! I feel terrible. He’s been waiting on me like a bloody princess, refusing all help, and he’s sick!! It just goes to show, neither of us are quite recovered, much as we like to think we’ve bounced back no problem.
I’m grateful to him for bringing me here today. It’s quiet and restful, something we’ve had little of since our swim. I’m enjoying the solitude. I might go for a snooze too. Chaps has crashed, dear man. What a friend I have.


Midnight – I had a nice last evening too. Sunset sail and dinner with Bridget and Selime. Caught up with Yusuf too, after popping in to say my goodbyes to Ali’s family.
Mimi napenda Lamu. Asante sana na kwaheri.

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