Tuesday 28.01.20

Plans keep changing! Bernie discovered the Yankee (forward most of the two fore sails) needs some serious repairs. So yesterday we took it by taxi to a sail loft to get that done. But it won’t be ready till Thursday. To expediate things they suggested Bernie organise the line needed for the reinforcing in the leading edge. They wanted him to buy some 8mm pre-shretched line from a shop in La Cruz. However, upon sussing this out, Bernie found they charged twice what it costs to buy in the US. Intensely irritated by this obvious price gouging, he remembered some similar line he’d bought and had stored on board. So we rigged it up the mast and Bernie put as much pressure on it as he could to see if it seemed OK to use. And that’s a cost saving right there, people!

I love all the bright cheerful flowers around here.

On Sunday we went ashore so Bernie could do a few odd jobs he wanted to in town. I didn’t feel like traipsing round hardware stores, so I checked out the markets which were on the sea front. It was fun. Lots of cheerful bright colours and live music. I bought a few psychedelic items to keep for Tomorrowland! Couple of groovy mini skirts that will be back pack friendly!

I also got a hair cut, from a lass I met outside the hairdressers (which was closed) but she said she’d do it at home in her courtyard. So I sat with the dog and parrot while she did my hair. It came out rather shorter than I expected but as I haven’t had a proper cut in two years, it’s likely a good thing. Feels weird though. Light!

Then I settled into a local bar called Ana Banana’s. Bernie joined me not long after a bunch of local expats started playing country music and my first margarita was 2/3s gone! It was a great atmosphere and we stayed for a couple more margaritas.

Bernie and Michelle had actually been there years ago when it was still a bar on the beach. Now there’s a huge marina and the bar is in the Bush! One lady actually recognised Bernie and remembered Momo. I can’t remember what happened five minutes ago half the time, never mind 15 years ago!

Not having eaten much all day we both were a bit tipsy by the time we headed back to Momo. Especially mon capitaine! Getting home entailed getting the dingy back in the water (the tide was out so it was high and dry on the beach), finding the key in the depths of my dry bag in the dark, getting the engine down (it’s sticking badly and requires encouragement with a screw driver) and navigating out through the waves off the beach. By the time I’d got Bernie’s drunk ass in the dingy and all that accomplished, I was soaking wet from my arm pits down!

I actually don’t know how we got ourselves and the groceries back on board without disaster! It was bloody funny though. I had new bruises and grazes in the morning and the contents of my dry bag were wet! Apparently I didn’t close it after finding the key! My phone wouldn’t charge until it’d been in rice for ages and sprayed with WD40! I was starving and had dinner as soon as I’d dried off but Bernie crashed and burned!

I was fine in the morning, Bernie was a tiny bit delicate but all in all, we were less hung over than we deserved to be! I made cooked breakfast to energise our abused bodies! To be fair, we hadn’t actually drunk that much, just not eaten, and probably hadn’t drunk enough water throughout the day either. We’re pretty good partners in crime, gotta say!

Apart from the Sail trip into La Cruz, Bernie worked on his translation a fair bit and I washed his sheets (a mission by hand) and our towels, and worked on a spare sail to get the clips working again (more WD40 and a pair of pliars!). Watched some Outrageous Fortune before getting an early night!

I’ve also booked my flight to LA from Puerto Vallarta, mainly because its way cheaper from there than from Mazatlan. So the current plan (haha) is to catch up with some friends of Bernie’s about 60nm up the coast later in the week. Then I’ll probably bus down to catch my flight to the US.

Bahia Banderas

25.01.20 @ 0930

Were currently under way on engine to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle (pronounced wah-nah-KAHSHT-lay), another town in this big bay. Bernie is chasing spare parts for the Perkins. Apparently there’s a guy with an old one here, which he sells parts off. Bernie’s hoping he has its thermostat still. Plus we’ll get supplies for the next leg of the journey.

We’ve been anchored at Punta Mita, which I imagine was a cute fishing village before Americans (largely, we’re told) bought up and dandified the whole place! Its still cute but there’s an obvious disparity between locals and incomers.

Some Aussie friends of Bernie’s are anchored next to us, and we’ve had a fun couple of evenings with them. It was Andrew’s birthday yesterday so Karen, his wife, and their kids made pizzas and pavlova! Of course, there was discussion about the origins of the Pav!

It rained really hard for about half an hour this morning, enough for a fresh water wash down but not long enough to open the water tanks! It’s drizzling now and I’m on deck on watch in my wet weather gear!

We’ve seen so many whales. It’s incredibly heartening. One put on a real display for us all, while we were aboard Utopia last night. A mother and baby, the mum leaping out of the sea over and over. Totally showing off and having fun. What a birthday present!

1025. Bernie just called me up on deck (he took watch at 1000) because we had two whales cruising right alongside Momo. Just WOW.

1925. We’ve had a semi successful day. We forgot it was the weekend, lol, so didn’t see the guy about engine parts. But we got groceries and negotiated water with the marina guy. Bernie’s not feeling a hundy, so I’ve tried to get him to rest (haha) while I did the water runs etc. Actually, he must be feeling pretty shitty because he’s let me nurse him to the point of agreeing to medications, something he normally refuses.

There’s loads of pelicans here and they roost on everything possible! In fact, the birds life is great, I’m just no good at identifying most of them!

It’s been a cooler 24 degrees Celsius today, with rain hovering over the mountains much of the day. We did get our phones topped up too, so now we have data. I got quite a good pic of Momo silhouetted against the stormy sky. Pretty Momo!

Mum and Dad were asking where we were headed next! This happens to be a moving target, each time we raise the pick! However, current thought is we hope to go to Santa Rosalia, where Bernie’s friends are now. So, on the map I’ve put here, we’re currently near Puerto Vallarta and you can see Santa Rosalia in the Sea of Cortez.

Tenacatita North

21.01.20 possibly Tuesday! 1530 – We lifted the pick and sailed of the anchorage about 1230 I think. Beautifully done, Bernie! We’re heading north for Puerto Vallarta at this stage. It’s weather dependent how much further north we go before I have to leave.I’ve booked my flight home, departing LA on the 13th Feb. I’ve got very mixed feelings about leaving Momo. I’m loving it here and Bernie is easy company. But I also very much want to see the whanau before returning to Europe for the next Mediterranean season. And I need to sort out Danny’s affairs and get things done for Carly too. But I’ll be very sad to leave here.Matt and I are planning a wee trip together before I go back to work. We’re thinking to go to Cyprus at this stage. He hasn’t been there and I didn’t get a chance to explore really, when we took Lucky Wave there. So I’ll probably fly straight there to meet up with him, then on to France afterwards.Oh, the dolphins have joined us. I’m on watch, Bernie’s asleep, well I hope so. He’s been working very hard the last few days. Just got a lovely yacht motor sailing down our port side. We’ve passed the Rocas Los Frailes and approaching Punta Farrallon. On a port tack doing about 3.5 knots.

22.01.20 @ 0715

Damnably uncomfortable night, with little wind and lazy rollers tossing us all over the show. The boom thumping, sails snapping, my bed trying to evict me every few moments! I don’t think either of us got much shut eye. More than once I rued the fact my dear skipper dislikes using the engine! Still Dawn has arrived in all her usual glory, the Southern Cross has gone to bed and I’m thinking “coffee”.

Tenacatita to Puerto Vallarta

23.01.20 @ 0120

I’m on watch, though I suspect Bernie is awake. Conditions are not conducive to sleep! We finally have wind, probs around 20 knots from the North (naturally, that’s where we’re going!) and sea state rough! So we’re tacking and taking turns on watch, but really we’re both awake 90% of the time. I’m sacked out in the salon, partly because my bed is wet from a leak somewhere and partly because it’s not as bouncy in the centre of the boat.

I started out writing when we left but today my phone did something weird and lost it all. This yacht sailed by yesterday.

Were heading up this coast and round the point at the top into Bahia Banderas.

Some OTT houses en route!

0230 and I’m still on watch. Bernie is tired so I’m trying to let him sleep but every time I look he’s got his phone in his hand, so I guess he can’t relax enough. The weather has either been so light (the day before yesterday), sailing has been demanding or so heavy as to be equally demanding, in a different way. So we’re both lacking in zeds and tired. Bernie has a deeper store of patience than I do, though. As always, that’s a work in progress!

It’s 0715 and Bernie’s been on watch since 0400. In spite of the tossing Momo, I’ve slept rather well. Bernie wakes me to help tack, then I just ly down on the sofa seat that’s most comfortable with the heeling of the boat.

Were both fairly feral, not having been able to shower since leaving Tenacatita! Luckily neither of us gets too sniffy! You know how some people are more prone to BO than others!

We’re now inside Bahia Banderas, a huge bay housing La Cruz and Puerto Vallarta. The sunrise promises to be extra special this morning, so I’ll go up on deck shortly.


The sunrise was spectacularly disappointing! A bunch of clouds rolled up over the hills and blocked it. Yesterday’s sunrise was better! On the plus side we caught a Skipjack for breakfast. Bernie filleted and I cooked it. The fishing gods seem to smile on us every time we’ve just about run out of fresh food.

Bernie’s gone to catch a kip, hopefully, and I’m sitting on deck hoping to spot the resident whales. The sea is more settled inside the bay.

It’s much cooler today. I have Danny’s jersey on. I haven’t had the heart to wash it yet, but I have to admit the smell of him is nearly gone. Feeling a bit sad today. Well, on a sad scale that runs daily between 7 and 10 on the devastation rating, it’s maybe 8.5 today. I wonder how long it takes to drop below 7. Months? Years? A lifetime?

A grey and silver day, Mercury falling. Appropriate. A small front approaches.

The front didn’t come to anything and we ran out of wind, came in on the engine and have just dropped the anchor and had a late lunch. Its 1430. We’re having a 20 minute nanna nap, before putting the sails away etc.

The best bit is we saw whales. Lots of them. So so awesome. Bernie said there were humpback whales living here but I didn’t expect to see them straight away. I even saw one leap right up out of the water. Twice! Marvelous.

Some friends of Bernie’s are here too so we’ll go and have sundowners with them after a swim, later.

Momo Restored!


The engineer is to be congratulated! Bernie spent all of yesterday upside down or twisted like a pretzel, or both, with a tiny amount of help from me, and has got Momo’s engine back together and running better than before!

We went to La Manzanillo the day before yesterday to collect the injector pump and use the Internet. On our return, we’d literally just sat down to relax, Bernie gazing happily at his shiny restored part, when he leapt up with an anguished “oh no!” it turned out they had put the thing back together backwards.

Once he’d got over the initial horror, Bernie radioed on the local net asking if anyone had a 12 point socket set. That produced positive results and the clever guy turned the offending part to it’s correct orientation. So panic over.

That left him back on track to install it and it really did take most of the day. There’s so little room to manoeuvre in the engine space, so it’s damnably hard work. I didn’t envy him. I did laundry, and after lunch, dived on the hull to clean it, before we sail again. I was actually really nervous, because I haven’t dived since my course, and I was diving alone. I couldn’t remember half the stuff which didn’t help my peace of mind. But Bernie helped me gear up and checked everything.

With a mental toughen up lecture, I went over the side. I was fine but found it quite a challenge. The tide kept pulling at me and it took a lot of concentration to stay where I wanted to be. Great buoyancy control practice! Also Bernie’s BCD is too big for me and it kept trying to wriggle off my body! But I managed to clean the hull adequately I think. (21st-apparently not!) Doing the absolute bottom I did rather enjoy. It’s the worst bit with lots of barnacles and growth, plus you have to hover upside down to do it. Also I wasn’t very deep, only 4 or 5 metres I’d say.

I was tired afterwards though! Once back on Momo, I helped Bernie finish the engine and gave him deserved praise when it ran nicely! The only thing that was a bit off was that the guys who fixed the injector pump have put something (tmi for me) back to front inside it and now idle is forward on the throttle, and power is backwards! Counter intuitive, but it still works! Bernie just said it adds to Momo’s individuality! Very noble attitude!

So I guess today we’ll get water and ready for sea.

Oh, and we have our Tomorrowland tickets! Very excited. And Matt, bless him, booked me cheap as tickets from LA to Auckland. I get home on February 14th. I just have to organise the local flights when I know where we end up. And a flight to Chch.

Time to get up and make coffee. Crew’s job! And the engineer deserves some tlc!


I’m having a lazy morning coffee while Bernie gets some translation work done before we sail, hopefully anyway.

Yesterday was quite busy with Bernie doing other maintenance things and me simply following behind cleaning the boat! He also dived to replace the zincs. Apparently my hull cleaning looks like it was done by someone who couldn’t control their buoyancy very well, lol. Can’t say I’m surprised, I did find it hard to stay in one place and be methodical.

We had a fish treat yesterday too. A huge school of travelly congregated around the yacht, hunting schools of smaller fish. It was amazing to watch. Very dramatic.

This video doesn’t exist

We went ashore later in the day to collect the water drums we’d left a couple of days ago to be filled. Unfortunately the truck hadn’t been so we’ll have to wait till Puerto Vallarta to get fresh water. But we decided to have a margarita, which turned into 3 margaritas, at the bar there. They must’ve been bloody strong because we were both as silly as chooks, thoroughly hammered, by the time we got back to Momo!

In the spirit of this high good humour we decided it was an equally amazing idea to have a night swim. This is largely my fault, as I’ve been begging Bernie to join me for a night swim almost daily. The bioluminescence is incredible here and it was wonderful. Well worth it! So beautiful.

Luckily I’d made dinner earlier so we ate, which I reckon is why we are both undeservedly well this morning! Very grateful about that! I’ve had a nice long chat to Matt. And will get to work readying Momo for sea shortly.

Tenacatita, Mexico


January is half gone already, along with two months since Danny’s passing. I still feel like I’m living an alternate reality. I also feel as if I’m escaping or hiding from that reality by being on board Momo. But this has been wonderful for me and I really am in no rush to leave. However, a letter from my lawyer regarding Danny’s estate reminds me I have obligations to fulfil and so I must return home in the not too distant future.

Bernie and I are anchored in the Bay of Tenacatita, South of Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. It’s a lovely, sheltered bay and popular with cruisers, judging by the 28 yachts already here when we arrived. As I said in my last blog, I think, we’ve got to get the injector pump fixed so yesterday Bernie took it to some guy he heard about on the local boating radio net.

We took the tender across to La Manzanilla and Bernie took a taxi from there, to meet this bloke. I explored a bit, made a few touristy purchases, and took advantage of the local restaurant WiFi.

After we got back to Momo, lighter by one pump but having replenished fresh produce, we decided to go snorkeling off some rocks near our anchorage. It was magic. So many different fish, corals, abundant kina and I even saw a huge black and white striped sea snake. We only got out because we were getting chilly.

Today we got ourselves up and doing early, to go on a dingy trip up the Tenacatita mangrove creek. High tide was 1030 so we wanted to be doing this an hour either side of high tide. It was fantastic. The most stunning array of bird life, some of which we don’t recognise but including herons, Ibis and roseate spoonbills. My phone camera couldn’t really manage the long shots but Bernie got some good ones with his good camera which he’ll put on a USB stick for me.

Bernie’s been working this afternoon and the most energy I’ve expended was cleaning the dingy! And swimming. It’s hot. Again! I need to think about dinner at some point.

Matt is booking my tickets for Tomorrowland. I’m so excited to be going this year. We’ll all be going hard out on Danny’s behalf! I’ve booked an apartment in Antwerp for the week at the end of July. Matt and I are also planning a trip together, just the two of us, in March maybe. A start to making our new memories. See, we’re trying hard.

At the Whim of the Wind

January 10th @ 0842.

I’ve just seen that on Xmas eve we thought we’d make Puerto Valarta in 6 days or so. Haha. The weather gods must’ve laughed their butts off. 16 days later we’re still not that far north! Bernie says its the slowest sailing he’s ever had, lol, such incredible light winds, day after day.

We’ve just arrived at Tenacatita, dropping the anchor around 10pm last night in the dark after creeping ever so slowly in, trying to see the rock in the middle of the bay the chart told us was there somewhere. We didn’t spot it till it was past and well off to our port side! Of course, with no engine available as back up, we had to sail onto our anchorage, but it went smoothly and the minute we were holding we literally dived on the bottle of wine I had sitting waiting below! Then I made tortillas for dinner. Bernie is so easy to please on the food front which is marvelous. Y’all know how much I love cooking! We had rum for dessert. As usual.

Neither of us, pair of stinky sailors that we are, having crashed without showering last night (probably just as well our rooms are at opposite ends of the boat!), have put our heads out the hatch yet this morning. I’m lying in bed contemplating coffee, lazily hoping Bernie might do it first! He’s likely thinking the same thing! We’ve been going for a week, pretty much, so deserve a little tlc.

We’ve had a bit of cell phone coverage the last two days, as we’ve tacked close to land and there’s quite a few biggish towns along this part of the coast. But none in this anchorage, dammit. So I guess we’ll have to go ashore.

0925. I made coffee!

Poked my head out to see the beautiful bay we’re in. We’re anchored a long way away from the other vessels, lol. It looked so close in the dark. Better safe than sorry! We can move when there’s enough wind!

I have a confession to make. I’ve been using this pretty little china mug without a handle for my cold drinks. Upon announcing, a while ago, that it was my favourite cup, Bernie admitted it was Michelle’s favourite too. But I’ve broken it. 😦 I lost my balance coming down the ladder and dropped it. I feel very bad. Bernie was just relieved I did it and it’s not his head on the platter, charmer! We exonerated me a little by deciding it would’ve survived the 2 metre fall onto hard ground if not for the little chip in the lip which must’ve weakened it!

Did I mention we thought we saw a whale a couple of nights ago. Bernie spotted it but by the time I got topside, all I saw was a flick of the fluke as it dived. But it was a very large tail!

1512. It’s 34 degrees outside. Decent breeze so we’ve moved into the bay a bit more. Bernie’s asleep. I think worrying about the engine has worn him out.

It looks like we’ll be here a while, as Bernie has to order a reconditioned injector pump for the engine, then wait for it to get here to install it. I think he can do that himself. So I’m not sure what to do. I don’t want to leave Momo, really, but on the other hand I probably need to get home with enough time to see if there’s any legal stuff I need to get done before the Mediterranean season starts again. Or I could stay until March, fly straight to join Matt for a bit, then go home. Or stay in France. Don’t know!


We had some potentially good news this morning. The local boaties do a radio net each morning at 0915 on channel 17. They check arrivals in the Bay and who’s leaving, ask if anyone needs assistance of any sort and mention any social things. It’s pretty good really. So Bernie piped up and said about our injector pump woes. Blow me down if a guy didn’t radio in to say he might have one not too far from here. So we’ll see how that goes. Bernie’s going to check it out. Today he’s taking ours out.

This morning we noticed huge fish in the water near Momo. So we got in the water with snorkeling gear and the spear gun. Bernie got one first shot. I was very impressed with his Hunter abilities! So we’ve added trevalley to the menu. It’s a very dense red meat, almost like beef! Much appreciated. He’s going to smoke most of it I think.

I dreamt of Danny last night, more precisely, of our last night together. The night before I left for France last March 31st was a lovely balmy warm evening. Danny and I sat outside on the deck at Ohope with wine and bufti, chatting into the small hours. How I wish I could have that back. Needless to say I woke up feeling a bit delicate and every little thing has set me off today. Just one of those days.

I just talked to Matt, which makes me feel a lot better.

I can’t remember if I mentioned that I had a hard fall in Acapulco. We were striding along a street and there was a water leak across the footpath. It turned out to be slimy and I went flying. Took a decent chunk out of my left knee, bruised my tail bone, but the worst of it seems to be my left shoulder. I’m pretty sure I’ve got a rotator cuff tear. Hot damn, it’s sore and weak, plus I can’t sleep on it and it keeps me awake. Bloody nuisance but can’t do much about it at present. The main problem is I find it difficult to haul myself back on board after swimming. That aggravates it too!

I’ve seen a few beautiful jelly fish in the water. They’re apparently not dangerous and change colours so prettily when you get close. Nature really is the coolest. I need an underwater camera!

En Route to Mazatlan

Sunday 5th January

Lovely sailing 48 hours into our leg from Acapulco to Mazatlan. The winds are fairly light, giving us SOG (speed over ground) of not more than 4 knots, often less. They also back and veer depending on the time of day.

But we’re getting to see the Mexican coast unfold, parts of it reminding me very much of the foot hills of Canterbury. They’re rugged but with bits that have been cultivated and bits still forested. Beyond you can see the silhouettes of the bigger mountain ranges further inland, much as the Southern Alps takes over at home.

Our charts tell us there’s a lot of small estuaries and little lakes too, but we can’t appreciate those from here. You can just see the bush clad surrounds that hint at rich water ways. And some nice wild, lonely beaches too. Last night I could hear the waves crashing on one long stretch of sand, though we were a good three miles off. The depth went from 70m to 7m fairly close to the shore, hence the serious wave action.

And, as seems to be usual here I’m happy to say, so many dolphins, mostly Pantropical Spotted dolphins. They’re quite big. We’ve also seen lots of turtles. This continues to thrill me!

I’ve been very up and down, emotionally the last couple of days. In a way being at sea is therapeutic but it also seems to make me feel the pain of Danny’s loss more keenly. Maybe just because there’s no one to see my distress and judge my lack of control, and because I feel Danny had a very similar feeling towards the ocean that I have. The fact that the whale, Tohora, is his guardian spirit, kai tiaki, emphasises that for me.

6.1.20 @ 0730

I’m on watch. A frustrating night of damn all wind. Again! We are coming up on Ziahuatanejo (Zee wah ta nayoh) which means we’ve done 110nm since Acapulco! Slow going, huh!

The promised Internet has not arisen which is bothering me as I need to get in touch with Fizz.

I just tried to raise a ship, a fuel tanker, on the radio to let them know we were on their port bow with a CPA (closest point of approach) of 0.13nm, but no reply. So we prudently altered to starboard. She’s a lot bigger than us!

7.1.20 @ 0417.

My watch again, though Bernie and I have been sitting up together as we’ve rounded a very prominent headland, Punta Mangrove, with a massive shipping port on it. Lots of vessels anchored off as well, so we watched together for a bit. Safety first!

We actually made reasonable way yesterday, looping in close to Ziahuatanejo, to get the Internet long enough to catch up with everyone. Timing was fortuitous and I spoke to Matt, Fizz, Mum & Dad, Johan and Mehrez. And a lot of messaging and emails as well. Fizz isn’t coming, sadly, but I did wonder if the cost would prove prohibitive at short notice. We’ll catch up when I get home!

I saw a beautiful sea snake during the afternoon. One of those yellow and black stripey ones, like we get in Fiji. It was just lazing along on the surface. And lots more dolphins and turtles. I forgot to mention the display the dolphins and Sting rays put on last night. Just on dusk, Bernie and I were sharing a beer on the aft deck, and both species started leaping right out of the water, high in the air, doing graceful airborne manoeuvres, before disappearing again. Wonderful treat to see. One dolphin shot up right next to Momo, easily as high as the boom, literally a metre from the side of the boat!

I’m reading three books at present. One called ‘Momo’, a kids story and the source of this yacht’s name, another on the history of South Africa and one of my warry stories!

1817. Slow but steady going all day, with the odd patch of no wind at all. I was just contemplating a swim when Bernie noticed lots of tiny jelly fish in the water. So decided against! We’ve watched a couple of documentaries and generally been pretty quiet. I washed a few clothes. It’s easier to do a little each day. I live in singlet tops and shorts. Bernie lives in Thai short trou. Neither of us bother with underwear much! Too hot and more washing!

I’m struggling to get enough sleep. I’ve never been good at sleeping during the day, was a useless night shift nurse, losing weight hand over fist. But I cannot expect Bernie to do all the night watches. So, yes, I’m losing weight again! But we eat well so it’s fine. It doesn’t help that every time I close my eyes, images of happier times with Danny in our lives pop into my head. Sometimes I feel I’ll never work properly again. It’s so terribly unfair. I wish I could turn back the clock, get home earlier, see my baby one more time. Or switch off my work ethic and have just left Lucky Wave and visited the boys in Athens. One more hug. One more “I love you, Mum”. Fuck, its hard.

8.1.20 @ 0637

I came on watch at 0500. We’re about to round a headland, Punta Tejupan, hugging the coast line. Less than a nautical mile to port is a big ship, somewhere from 50-100m long judging by her navigation lights. Looks to be on the large end of the scale! I gave her a quick call on the radio to let her know a sailing yacht a fraction of her size was ahead of her! We don’t have AIS. I also put our deck Nav lights on, not strictly legal when we have a masthead tricolour but I’d rather be seen! Dawn isn’t far away. I’ll stick our fishing lure out now.

A New Year – for better or worse

Wednesday 1st January 2020.

I’m finding it hard to utter the words “happy new year”. As Matt said, it felt wrong to leave behind the last year that we had Danny in it. Life will never be the same. I can’t wrap my head round it.

Bernie and I took our rum and lime up on deck just before midnight to watch the fireworks. We’d seen the barges in place earlier in the day, a dozen or more dotted around the bay. One was moored very close to Momo so we were lined up for a front row seat.

Acapulco is lovely at night and the display really was spectacular, with just enough breeze to take the smoke away as it progressed. We stayed on deck, yarning, with another rum, long after the fireworks were over. Boats started returning to the marinas, weaving around us.

I happened to look out over the starboard bow and saw a boat heading directly for us. I said to Bernie “That boat needs to alter course. Right now” and got to my feet to start yelling at them. Bernie joined me but they kept coming. The boat was overloaded with passengers and, way too close for comfort, some noticed us and relayed, presumably, to the skipper. They slowed but didn’t stop and the only reason they didn’t hit us was because Bernie and I both leaned out and fended them off. We physically grabbed their bowsprit and pushed them off to the side. The skipper finally got his dumb head into gear and went into reverse, yelling that he couldn’t see us.

Well, duh! I think we got that point loud and clear. The dickwad was steaming along with all their interior lights on and no navigation lights at all. Plus there were so many people on board he wouldn’t have seen through the throng ahead of the vessel. Idiot. It was no bloody wonder they couldn’t see us. We certainly had our anchor light on. I tried to get the boats name, to identify it for today, but they turned off all lights and went completely dark. So I couldn’t read the name.

We were a bit nervous after that so stayed on deck with a hand held light that we shone towards any boat heading our way. To be fair, it can be hard to see anchor lights against the back drop of the city, but that is exactly why you stick to the pilotage channels and don’t fucking drive right through the middle of a designated anchorage. And you keep a decent lookout and use your navigation lights. WTF! These things are in place for a reason!

So we’re feeling like we dodged a bullet this morning. Poor Momo would’ve been in rough shape if they’d rammed us. Not to mention the very real possibility of drunk guests from their boat either injured or in the water, or both.

This is a typical taxi here! Picture 6′ Bernie and me and groceries folded into one! And the name of this fast food outlet made us laugh. Do you think something got lost in translation?


We sailed off the anchor and exited the bay around 1615 this afternoon. The wind is WNW so we’re having to tack our way north. Its slow going but Momo is tripping along nicely. Its nearly 1900 now and I’ve just sent Bernie off to rest. It’ll be hard on him with all the tacking non stop. It’s a beautiful evening though.

We’re heading to Mazatlan first, probably, where I’m trying to persuade Fizz to meet us and join for a bit!