Friday 21st August 2020

I’ve been on Momo for over a month now. Bernie keeps asking me if I’m bored yet, lol. Not going to happen. Anyone who knows me at all well, knows I don’t get bored!

I’ve got three books on the go, do most of the cooking, all the laundry, can swim and snorkel as much as I like, do whatever maintenance stuff I’m in the mood for, do nursing education and listen to podcasts or music, write, take the dingy off somewhere – no, I don’t get bored. Bernie and I have started a little meditation routine too, in the morning after our coffee. I’m quite liking that.

We talk a lot too. Bernie is so knowledgeable about so many things. I’m too lazy to do research like he does. Hashtag Matt! I work on a need to know basis! He’s always educating himself! We’re both pretty liberally minded and non judgemental, on the same page about a lot of things, but also totally comfortable with our differences. I find it refreshing that he doesn’t try to bend me to his way of thinking or will.

We’ve been watching the weather closely the last few days, as we had hurricane Genevieve on the warpath. But it’s moved offshore to the north west, and we didn’t even get too much wind in the end. The gusts were maybe 40 knots. The visibility for spear fishing isn’t that good though. The swell courtesy of the hurricane has stirred things up.

Bernie’s been working hard out on his book, trying to get the translation finished. I’m trying not to interrupt! This morning I went snorkeling with Andrew, off Utopia, and he showed me a stone fish. Ugly things and scarily hard to see. If you stand on one the poison can kill you, or at best, be excruciatingly painful. Just reinforces my opinion that I should be on top of the sea, not under it (except with dive tanks!). I wish I had an underwater camera though. The sea life is amazing. I saw a crazy looking puffer fish today and some incredible starfish. There’s also loads of Cortez Round Stingrays, unique to this area. And the kinna are ginormous – up to 10 inches across. For those Kiwis reading this who know how the snapper go crazy for kinna at home, they don’t here! I tried. Very disappointing!

We skinny dipped last night, after returning from an evening on Utopia. There is so much bioluminescence in the water and we just had to experience that. Your whole body lights up. It really is spectacular.

22.08.20: An awesome day today. Bernie and I decided to go fishing since the visibility has improved a bit, though the water is still green. Apparently the bioluminescence has gone for now. It’ll be back no doubt.

Anyway, we (Bernie really) hunted until we had enough fish for us and the Vanninis on Love & Luck, who are anchored next to us. They’re a family of 6, so it must take some feeding! I did take the gun at one point but the fish I had in my sights was such a good one I didn’t want to mess up and miss! So I let Bernie take it! Also my fish recognition skills need to improve. I don’t want to take things that aren’t good eating or are on the endangered list. We have a great local website with heaps of pertinent information.

There’s a mother gull, similar to our Dominican gulls, with two young, who watch the filleting avidly, and scrap over the leftovers!

There’s lots of pelicans here, also boobys and frigate birds. Not much on land but the sea certainly supports an abundant variety of wildlife.

One good thing about the hurricane having gone past, it’s a bit cooler. Only 32 degrees today and last night I even had to put my sheet over me, as it dipped to 27°! Have I mentioned that in these hot climates all my menopause symptoms disappear? It’s great. No more hot flushes. So weird. And my body hair stops growing, or slows right down, which means I shave about once a month! It is quite bizarre but I’ll take the wins!

Bernie speared a small relative to tuna right under the boat this evening so I’ll turn it into a spicy coconut recipe I like for tomorrow’s dinner. It needs a gamey fish to go with that sauce. We’re out of fresh produce and I traded the fish we caught for an onion earlier, with Julie (Love & Luck) so at least I have something to put in a sauce! We’ll go across to Santa Rosalia on Monday for groceries. We’ve only spent 250 pesos in a month, so can’t complain.


We’ve had an eventful few days, and productive. Bernie had finished the book and sent off the translation so we could get on with other things. We had to go into Santa Rosalia for groceries and it was a crazy hot day on Monday. We left San Marcos early but it was getting on for midday when we arrived. Andrew and Tristan were there so we had lunch with them before heading to the supermarket. Bernie was really feeling the heat but we eventually got it done and collapsed in wet puddles back on Momo. I found a salsa with Danny’s name on it!

Tuesday was better as we went ashore early to explore a bit. I wasn’t that inspired by Santa Rosalia; it’s pretty dirty and smelly, especially the marina area. The town itself has some interesting buildings and a lot of history. There’s even a church designed by Msr. Eiffel of Eiffel Tower fame! I bought all the masks I could in the pharmacy and new sun screen. Then we had lunch before grabbing a few more groceries and returning to Momo.

We headed out, expecting to motor back to San Marcos island but the engine died. Andrew and Mark, off Utopia and Love & Luck, rescued us. I’d write a lot more about this but am feeling a bit stressed right now, so maybe later. Boating, while great, is not always roses and rum.

27.08.20: Bernie’s diagnosis that it was the impellor was spot on and he spent yesterday pretzeled on the saloon floor fixing the engine. It’s fine now and running better than ever! No surprise when you see how bad it was.

I talked to Matt for ages yesterday too. It was so good to have a decent catch up. I miss him so much. It’s looking less and less likely I can go to France. Borders are closing as Covid-19 increases again across Europe. Matt and Meg have just attended the Awake concert in Croatia. Ben and Michael Gorman joined them, so it was nice for him to have time with his friends.

They think they’re going to get the virus as there were people there who’ve tested positive. So they’ve decided to stay in Croatia another week and make sure they’re not taking it with them. I want to go to see my boy. 😢🙏

We went snorkeling this afternoon, in a couple of different spots. Got 3 fish so Bernie is making cerviche and I’m making guacamole for our friends off Utopia and Love & Luck. We’re heading to San Carlos tomorrow pm with a view to sailing overnight and arriving mid morning.

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