Having left Loreto two days ago in a decent SW wind, giving us over 7 knots, and expecting to make San Marcos over night in the predicted weather window, the winds promptly died two hours in. So we anchored at Isla Coronados again and resumed heading north about 10am yesterday. We had reasonable wind off and on for 6 hours but had only made San Juanico by 1630. So we have anchored in the southern part of the bay, west of all the amazing rock formations around Punta Mercenarios.
Today has been almost flat calm all day so we’ve decided to stay and do some serious fishing on the gorgeous reef here. We’ve hunted twice today, getting 3 this morning and 7 this afternoon. I’ve got 5 of them. Still having spear teething problems. I think Bernie has beaten the band issue but the string needs replacing. It knots too easily and finally broke this afternoon. I got two trigger fish, a grouper, a grunt and a wrasse. Pretty happy with that. We’re going to get more tomorrow and smoke it all. Lasts longer that way. Then head on north.
18.05.21: Amazing morning’s spear fishing. We got two buckets of fish so can smoke it all, hooray. I got the most massive Maori fish either of us has seen. We’re pretty sure it’s a type of grouper and excellent eating. So I’m about to suss out a recipe for it. Prize catch! I think I finally got a “well done” out of Bernie! He’s filleting the rest with the cats help. They love it. He shot a small snapper so we’ll have that for breakfast tomorrow. The other 6 fish and the ones we got yesterday will be smoked. Can’t wait. This is a great spot. I wish I’d known about it when Matt and Meg were with us. The snorkeling is beautiful. There were bright yellow anenomes on one big rock and they closed when you touched them gently. So gorgeous. And the most enormous moray eel – eeek.
19.05.21: I sent another at anchor message from the InReach this morning as we’ve been here longer than expected. We’d originally planned to sail straight up to San Marcos but the winds been so fickle we decided to stay until we got a decent weather window. After all, we’re not time constrained so might as well enjoy the journey.
I baked muffins today, savoury cheese ones. We had two each with our sundowners. Nice little bonus. Wish I’d known they were so easy years ago!
Bernie has been smoking the fish today. Its a fairly long process but the results should be worth it. As soon as he started putting the smoker box together, the cats were getting in it!
20.05.21: I’m sitting in what we’ve dubbed Matt’s Spot, on the support structure for the solar panels. It makes a great elevated seat, just in front on the self steering gear. We’ve got a lovely ESE breeze and are humming along beautifully at around 6 knots. Punta Pulpito is coming up on our port bow, an imposing headland. Its joined to the mainland by a long low spit, so looks like an island from a distance.
We rattled our dags a bit to get going quickly this morning when this wind popped up. It’s been so calm the last few days, so we want to make the most of the good sailing. Once under way I made eggs and tomatoes with the smoked fish Bernie did yesterday. So delicious!
21.05.21: We’re anchored in Bahía Santa Inés, having arrived about 11pm last night. The wind favoured us almost the whole way up so a lovely sailing day. Only had to motor the last couple of miles as it dropped and backed into the North. Bernie had a few rums on arrival but I decided a no alcohol day was in order! Crashed into bed with the gatitas! This morning has just been putting away sails etc. Quiet really.
I’ve messaged with some of the folk we met here at New Year’s. Diane and George Powell, and their son Tom, & as wife, Kathy. They’re going to come for drinks tonight. Should be fun.
Jack’s latest favourite thing is sleeping on top of me!
April 30th: Where’s this year going? It’s certainly been a strange one so far, with so many plan changes, possibilities torn apart and priorities rearranged! Who knows where it’ll end up. I think I’ll end up home actually.
We’ve spent the last few days anchored at the south end of Isla Coronados, 6nm from Loreto. Very strong NW winds were forecast and Loreto isn’t a good place for that. They’ve certainly been pretty fiesty, it’s currently about 25 to 30 knots. I tried to go out and work on the decks but it was too horrible. Bernie’s working on a translation.
He got the rebuilt starter motor installed and the engine started sweetly so job well done. That meant we could put the sail cover on and stow the foresails. The sun is so hard on them but while it was our only form of propulsion we had to have them ready for use.
We had sundowners last night with Mike and Katie from the yacht anchored near us, Alegria. It was great fun, a really awesome couple. I like their boat a lot. The layout of the interior is fantastic. It’s 50′ so a bit bigger than Momo, more my style! We all got pretty happy and when we got back, Bernie fell asleep on the couch! I couldn’t even wake him so just put a blanket over him and went to bed.
Fouche rang the other day. It was great to catch up with him. He wanted to know if he could come and travel with me for 3 weeks. I’d have loved to but it’s the same time Matt and Meg are here, so unfortunate timing. He had just been offered time off before the Mediterranean season gets going. He’s got his Chief Engineers ticket now too, which is great. He’s done very well in the 3 years since he turned up as a greenie on my boat! I’m blessed to have such good friends.
Yesterday we had a run in with a tourist boat that was driving straight through a pod of dolphins, herding them and upsetting them. Ignorant fools. Bernie notified their company who replied they’d talk to the skipper.
The kittens are full of themselves!
May 1st: It’s 1130 and we’ve just started motoring back to Loreto, giving the engine repairs a workout! Alex just gave us both mini heart failure. Both kittens usually go and park in their favourite spots when they realise we’re about to get underway. But we suddenly realised Alex wasn’t to be seen. Having searched inside and out for 5 minutes, with increasing panic, I begged Bernie to stop the engine in case she’d got into the bilge while he was checking the engine and opening the fuel valve. Just as he did, I went onto the bathroom and spotted her sitting on top of the jackets, swinging gently! Such relief. Silly cat! I’ve never seen them get up there before. So onwards we go, happily. Calm seas, sunshine, Bernie working, me on watch and 2 cats.
I’ve spent the morning cleaning stainless. It’s one of those futile jobs which you need to start again the minute you finish, but I quite like it. It’s rewarding, seeing it shining, sans rust. Bernie didn’t even notice, cue the eye roll! I have relaced the wheel leather back on too. It looks much better.
We had peanut butter and tomatoes on toast for breaky. It’s an old favourite of mine and most people screw up their noses when I mention it, but I’ve yet to find someone who doesn’t actually like it once they’ve tried it! Bernie’s my most recent convert.
5.05.21: It’s 2pm and we’re sailing nicely at 5 knots towards Ramada Cove. Matt and Meg rejoined us on Sunday and we had two nights anchored in Loreto while Bernie finished his translation job. The three of us went into town on Monday to have a wander round the town. Both kids liked Loreto as much as I do. Meg bought a couple of cute dresses and a pair of white trousers in a lovely shop we found. We had lunch at the Marina restaurant which has live music daily. It was great. Then we filled the water drums and headed back to Momo. Matt helped me get the water up and into the tanks, then the two of us did a second water run to top us off. Bernie finished his work and we plotted our moves over a few sundowners!
Yesterday was totally calm so we motored over to Isla Coronados and anchored in the south west bay for the night. We went ashore and Matt and I snorkeled. Didn’t see a great variety of fish but the reef looks as if its regrowing slowly. Saw Sting rays and a sea snake. There’s lots of turtles in the bay too. This morning we sailed off the anchor and after a slow start are now only a couple of hours from Ramada. We’ve got the lure out in hopes of a mahimahi!
I’ve been feeling pretty low again lately, also very lacking in confidence and worried about my future. I’ve been super sensitive too. I hate it. So I decided this morning to increase my dose of Fluoxetine to 40mg every second day. If that helps I’ll be very pleased. Bernie’s worried about me taking a higher dose but I can’t expect him to put up with me being such a cow. Matt and Meg have been very understanding and helpful. I’m so grateful to have them here.
6.05.21: We anchored about 1630 yesterday and Bernie straight away went spear fishing. He got two big hogfish so we had a yummy dinner! I cooked the fish and Meg made potato wedges!
Just after we’d gone to bed, Bernie said he could hear a whale so we all tumbled out again. We didn’t see it but certainly heard it. They even sound huge! Matt and Meg were quite awe struck, I think.
The cats are finding it too hot to cuddle at night now, sad face. I miss it but Jack still comes and gives me smooches. He was very attentive earlier this morning. We still get our gender pronouns mixed up, I notice! They get he and she at varying moments!
7.05.21: It’s 0600 and I’ve been awake since 0300. So annoying! It’s been pretty windy too, which wasn’t forecast. Yesterday was stunning. Matt, Bernie and I went snorkeling in the morning. I was going to hunt too but the band on my spear gun came apart on the first loading. So after we got back to Momo, Bernie spent ages fixing it. We went off again after lunch and I got my first fish! Three, in fact; two Maori fish and another one I can’t remember the name of. So I’ve finally put my new spear gun to good use. I was so excited with the first one but didn’t even get a “well done” from Bernie, just “we don’t usually shoot those”. He didn’t know why though. I was a bit bummed so was delighted to get two Maori fish. They’re hard to find and great eating. Bernie got a small grouper, so we baked the three smaller fish for dinner.
Meg made muffins yesterday afternoon as well. So good! Consequently, we had a very relaxed evening on the bow. Its great having them here.
1600: Matt and Meg went for a walk around lunchtime, climbing the hill on the SW side of the bay. Good effort in this heat! When they got back Bernie and I took beers and nibbles to the beach to hang out there for a bit. We swam and the water’s lovely. After that I snorkeled over to the rocky peninsula on the NE side. There’s not a lot there though.
Sunday 9th April: It’s Mother’s Day in New Zealand. I remembered to send an InReach message to Mum yesterday, since they’re ahead of us! When I said about doing that, Bernie suddenly remembered he’d missed his Mum’s birthday.
We took Matt and Meg over to the wee stony beach where we fished two days ago. The snorkeling there is great. We hunted (Bernie got a lovely red snapper) but my gun broke again. And Bernie had put a clear plastic end cover on mine without telling me so I shot two fish, was certain I’d got them but they took off. It wasn’t until I got ashore I saw the plastic. It was funny but… Omg. His lack of communication skills are frustrating at times. Unless something directly affects him personally, he doesn’t notice it!
We decided to watch a movie, which requires us all to sit close together round the table. So Matt and Meg shimmied in one side, and Bernie stretched out along the seat on the other, lounging comfortably along the seat. I said “Ah, Bernie, I need some place to sit”. He scrambled upright going “oh, sorry” but honestly, I wonder how Michelle put up with 20 years of going largely unnoticed! Being taken for granted. It does my head in. I have everyone’s needs in my mind, all day, every day. Bernie can sit two metres away from me and I’ll be cooking. When I put the meal down in front of him, he’ll go “oh, wonderful! When did you make all this?” Seriously, if I didn’t laugh, I’d cry! Anyway, they’ve been dissecting the movie this morning. Matt and Meg didn’t like it. I did warn them about Bernie’s odd taste in movies! It’s 50/50 if you’ll like something he loves!
Matt and Meg have a very cool relationship. I’m so proud of them. They’re so supportive of each other and help each other all the time, are mindful of one another’s needs. They’re honest and strong, don’t let each other step on their wishes, talk things out. They seem well matched in their aims in life, both physically and emotionally. Wish I could’ve found that level of trust with someone. I’ve never been with anyone who’s truly had my back. And since Danny died, all desire for a relationship with anyone has vanished. My mojo has gone! It’s peaceful in a way!
I watched some local guys fishing with the circular weighted fishing nets they throw for catching bait fish. It was pretty cool to see.
May 10th: We’ve anchored back in Isla Coronados after having to motor most of the way back! Flat calm day – ideal sailing weather according to Matt! Mmm, something wrong with that picture! We saw lots of dolphins though, which made them happy! Tomorrow we’ll go into Loreto and they go to La Paz the next day. It’s a hot evening. 6pm and over 30°C.
11th : So we’ve said goodbye to Matt and Meg. Boohoo. I’ve taken the laundry ashore and grabbed some cheese and tomatoes! The rest of the shopping can wait till tomorrow. The kittens have helped me make the beds and are now relaxing.